Mount Washington is the highest peak in the American Northeast at 6,288 ft (1,917 m). It is famous for its dangerously erratic weather, holding the record for the highest wind gust directly measured at the Earth’s surface, at 231 mph (372 km/h) on the afternoon of April 12, 1934. It was known as Agiocochook, or “home of the Great Spirit”, before European settlers arrived.
The mountain is located in the Presidential Range of the White Mountains, and in Coos County, New Hampshire. It is the third highest state high point in the eastern U.S., after Mount Mitchell, North Carolina – 6,684 ft (2,037 m) – and Clingmans Dome, Tennessee – 6,643 ft (2,025 m) – and is the most prominent peak in the Eastern United States.
While nearly the whole mountain is in the White Mountain National Forest, an area of 59 acres (0.24 km²) surrounding and including the summit is occupied by Mount Washington State Park.
Source: Wikipedia
A few weeks back I boldly told some friends I was going to hike the Presidential Range in one day, and I’d love some company. Bruce quickly set me straight: “I hiked that a few years ago in peak shape and it kicked my butt hard.”
Coming from the author of Beyond the Comfort Zone (Bruce’s highly entertaining memoirs of his checkered outdoor past), that was enough to get me thinking of plan B.
So we decided to hike Huntington Ravine, weather permitting. Leaving behind spouses and children, we mounted Graham’s Man Van and pressed north late Saturday, camping at Barnes Field Campground, next to Dolly Copp. Unbeknownst to us, Barnes is for large groups, perhaps of the noisy, noisome, or dangerous variety. All we were thinking was this is great, tons of space for steak, scotch, cigars, and stars.
We were not disappointed. Having arrived in the dark at the end of a downpour, the skies cleared and we slept under a fine clear new moon sky with nothing but jewels overhead.
That was about to change.
We’ll get back to Hungtington Ravine, but first I’ve got to tell you about Parker Towle. Parker is an old family friend from Westwood, MA. I got to know Parker through the Boy Scouts (Troop 1 Westwood), where he and my Dad led trips.
Parker is a backpacker’s backpacker. He’s prepared. He knows how to light fires and set up tarps and he can carry a really heavy pack. Parker is all leather and wool and steel lugs. Why Parker’s Limmers alone weigh as much as some people’s packs.
One of Parker’s favorite sayings was “you can’t carry too much rope or too many pairs of wool socks.” We shivering Boy Scouts used to look at him and wonder what he was talking about.
I can’t hike Mount Washington without thinking of a winter trip with Parker sometime in the late 1970s. Our approach was via the Lion Head Trail. This is a pretty common route, especially in the winter, as it is direct, well-protected by trees, and less avalanche prone than some of the alternatives.
All was going well until we reached tree line. Stepping out of the dense fir blanket we met 70 mph wind gusts which weathervaned our packs and had us grabbing rime-covered boulders for comfort. Parker shouted something and motioned us back down the trail. The trip was over; we couldn’t go on in those conditions. Lesson taught.
That was the first of many failed attempts on Mount Washington. Because of Parker, I’m proud of every one.
We stopped for breakfast here. The skies in the bowl cleared for the first time. What a sight. Just as quickly, new clouds pushed up from below and a steady rain followed which would strengthen and last the whole day.
At the base of the crux on the route, we looked up and saw a pair of climbers on their way down. If you look closely enough at the top of the picture you’ll see them. The guy in the white helmet is Charlie Townsend, manager of EMS climbing school in North Conway. I first met Charlie in 2001 when he and colleagues generously helped out with Jetboil testing. They had hiked down from the auto road to climb on the Pinnacle.
This is the view southeast from the Alpine Garden looking over Huntington Ravine. Tuckerman’s is in the distance. This is one of my favorite places in the Whites, so it took little convincing to turn our eyes from the summit and instead enjoy a garden stroll in the heavy rain. We descended on the Tuckerman Trail.
Fall comes early on this mountain. Snow could come any day now.
